When I learned that the celebrated house of Rochas had produced an oud perfume, it came as no real surprise… I mean, everyone out there has to have an oud in their perfume stable it would seem! I guess for this reason, I have become somewhat cynical every time a new oud is introduced by the designer brands… but this time, I was delighted and surprised with Rochas’ 2014 oud offering: Secret de Rochas Oud Mystere!

I must state from the outset that whilst the name of this scent has appended part of its title from the much-adored and long-discontinued Rochas Mystere that the similarities end there. Oud Mystere is precisely what it says on the box – a unique and alluring “oud-lite” that has both sensuous appeal and joyfulness in equal measures. Launched to appease the Middle Eastern market, Oud Mystere focuses on oud as a key note, however perhaps equally as important is a delightful saffron accord. These two components dance a quickstep through the heart of the perfume, whilst supporting notes of pink pepper, rose and gardenia twirl by the sidelines. Whilst it has a somewhat feminine lilt, Oud Mystere could comfortably be enjoyed by men – its woodsy / incense / patchouli foundation keeps it in the masculine spectrum too.

Presented in a beautiful column-like flacon, and decorated with beautiful gold motifs, Secret de Rochas Oud Mystere is a practically unheard-of gem that glitters with a flash of burnished gold. It seems that the Secret de Rochas that the brand has been hiding is that this oud in particular – is actually quite wonderful!

Stockholm-based fragrance house BYREDO have launched some fascinating parfums in recent times whilst working alongside some of the world’s most celebrated perfumers. In 2009, the Scandinavian perfume outfit launched Blanche – an arresting fragrance which serves as tribute to all things white!

Ben Gorham, the founder and creative director of the brand, notes the following: "the fragrance is pure and simple in structure but extreme in character"... and his perception is right on the money. The scent opens with diamond-white aldehydes that suggest a fragrance almost transparent in nature. Tender white roses blossom over a heart of hushed violet, dewy neroli and blushing peony... and whilst one can feel the translucent quality of this perfume, it is a scent which is really quite intricate. I immediately get the sensation of gauzy white linen billowing on a clothes line, still slightly damp from the wash. It is a sensation that I not only register via my sense of smell, but almost through touch... the composition is very tactile; soft and vapourous. Whilst the “fresh linen” concept has been tried many times in perfumery to date, Byredo's Blanche appears to have achieved it with finesse and sensitivity. Light musk, blonde woods and fragrant sandalwood furnish the fragrance with a sense of depth, and lend a sense of familiarity and comfort.

To my astonishment, I found that the fact this perfume is somehow diaphanous in nature, does not mean to say that it is in any way fleeting. A lovely unisex scent for the hot weather, or for when one wants to enjoy something with a sense of vast open spaces and weightlessness.

Simply said, the perfume pillars of yesteryear (which have endured to this day) are nothing to be toyed with! Greats such as Arpege, Joy, Mitsouko, and No.5 have all met their success because of their uniqueness and mass appeal, however, over the years all have been touched by reformulation as restrictions have outlawed the use of certain components. Guerlain's Shalimar (1925) was the scent that pioneered the 'Oriental' classification and remains until today, one of the brand's greatest success stories. So, rather than try and reinvent the wheel, the in-house noses Chez Guerlain have created a delightful flanker which borrows from the old, and breathes new life into it... Shalimar Souffle de Parfum  (originally intended as a one-off flanker) first appeared in 2014, and has remained in production in the Guerlain stable for the past 3 years.

Just as the name might suggest, Souffle de Parfum is light and airy... Shalimar 'lite' perhaps. Presented in a blue glass flacon with violet/blue juice, Souffle opens with a shimmering citrus triple-threat; bergamot, mandarin and lemon... these twinkle over a lip-smacking rounded heart of jasmine and neroli, which are infused with a unique ozonic accord. The result feels textured and light, but does not compromise on persistence. Where the original Shalimar is ambery and vanillic in its trail, Souffle twinkles with white musk, liberating her from her famous great grandmother and allowing her to soar to new heights as her predecessor's modern sibling. Shalimar Souffle de Parfum is the ideal scent for all situations and all ages. She proudly acknowledges her fine pedigree, but also strides forward, asserting herself as an independent entity in her own right. 

Still in production today, she has already outlasted countless other Shalimar flankers... doesn't that alone speak of her cheeky wiles and charms? 

Don't miss her.