Simply said, the perfume pillars of yesteryear (which have endured to this day) are nothing to be toyed with! Greats such as Arpege, Joy, Mitsouko, and No.5 have all met their success because of their uniqueness and mass appeal, however, over the years all have been touched by reformulation as restrictions have outlawed the use of certain components. Guerlain's Shalimar (1925) was the scent that pioneered the 'Oriental' classification and remains until today, one of the brand's greatest success stories. So, rather than try and reinvent the wheel, the in-house noses Chez Guerlain have created a delightful flanker which borrows from the old, and breathes new life into it... Shalimar Souffle de Parfum (originally intended as a one-off flanker) first appeared in 2014, and has remained in production in the Guerlain stable for the past 3 years.
Just as the name might suggest, Souffle de Parfum is light and airy... Shalimar 'lite' perhaps. Presented in a blue glass flacon with violet/blue juice, Souffle opens with a shimmering citrus triple-threat; bergamot, mandarin and lemon... these twinkle over a lip-smacking rounded heart of jasmine and neroli, which are infused with a unique ozonic accord. The result feels textured and light, but does not compromise on persistence. Where the original Shalimar is ambery and vanillic in its trail, Souffle twinkles with white musk, liberating her from her famous great grandmother and allowing her to soar to new heights as her predecessor's modern sibling. Shalimar Souffle de Parfum is the ideal scent for all situations and all ages. She proudly acknowledges her fine pedigree, but also strides forward, asserting herself as an independent entity in her own right.
Still in production today, she has already outlasted countless other Shalimar flankers... doesn't that alone speak of her cheeky wiles and charms?
Don't miss her.
Perfume Serge Lutens is widely revered in the fickle perfume industry, first for his work with Shiseido in the 1980s and 90s, and more recently for the magnificent signature line he has developed since 2000. His work is commonly viewed as avant-garde and many have achieved "cult" status in the niche perfume world. His ideas and approach are often quirky and unconventional. Serge Noire, launched in 2008 is an artful perfume rendering of smoke, ash and wood… but one which is resolutely unorthodox - it has an almost Gothic feel. If compelling, mysterious scents are your bag, the Serge Noire delivers. It is a contrast of textures; damp and dry, gloomy and light.
Its’ opening is somewhat surprising and polarising… flashes of wood and spice which take on an almost saccharine feel, but then swiftly taper away into a more sinister amalgam that brings to mind decomposition and decay. Some time later, the scent evolves once more and a lovely dry woody incense emerges which inspire mental images of gloomy churches burning resinous stones in concealed censers. There is a thread of warm amber, patchouli and cozy cinnamon that press up from below. Serge Noire feels both threatening and ethereal in equal measures… a "Brothers Grimm" approach to perfume, perhaps.
Many have come to love the creative brilliance and perfume narratives that spill from the perfumed pen of Monsieur Lutens. Serge Noire represents some of his most challenging and pioneering work yet.
Perhaps the ultimate scent for the modern day city-slicker, Bvlgari Black is a hard-hitting genderless perfume that embraces all that we know of the urban metropolis! Created in 1998, in the shadow of the impending new millennium, Black memorialises perfume notes that speak of the city!
Created without a traditional olfactory pyramid, Bvlgari Black trains its focus on the starring notes of lapsang souchong tea; a component that brings to mind the odour of burning rubber tyres and combustibles with everything choked in smoke. These facets feel devoutly masculine, but a striking balance is met when played against traditionally feminine accords of rose and jasmine, which buzz at the core of this perfume. Vanilla / amber aspects lend a comforting warmth; the sense of being close to home, with all of its comforts waiting inside. Fans of Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight in Paris will find plenty to love here... another scent that straddles the gender line, with each foot planted firmly under the bright lights of the big city.
Office appropriate, as much as it is for nights out on the town, Bvlgari Black is a now-iconic fragrance that blurs the line between the ages and genders. One to be experienced before it is gone forever.